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Knoll & Pregizer
THE ROBIN DEUTSCH COLLECTION
Jewelry by Knoll & Pregizer. Pforzheim, Germany. 1887-1975
Knoll and Pregizer Jewelry History. KP Germany Sterling 925 935 Victorian-Edwardian-Belle Epoque-Art Deco Jewelry and Watches through Post WWII. This website was started June 2009.

COPYRIGHT©ROBIN DEUTSCH 2009-2014. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The use of any information or images from this website is PROHIBITED without my prior written consent.If you choose to use the information I have provided in a public setting, book,article, webpage (whether in a sales venue or not), etc., please use the following credit:
"INFORMATION REGARDING KNOLL & PREGIZER IS COURTESY OF ROBIN DEUTSCH".


I have been collecting this exquisite jewelry for over ten years now, unfortunately compared to the size of some of my other collections this one is much smaller as it is usually hard to find. Each acquisition of a piece of Knoll & Pregizer has been a joy to acquire. In my collector's eye, they are the Cartier of German costume jewelers. This is just a small portion to give you an idea of the quality of jewelry made by this amazing company, as I have many incredible pieces that are not on this site. Sometimes the KP punch is so small that you might not even know you have a piece. I have had pieces for a couple of years before I found the mark. Sometimes I will buy a piece of it missing stones knowing I might never be able to repair it just to have it in my collection. Each piece is handcrafted from sterling silver, using the finest paste and imitation glass stones mimicking platinum,diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds, also copies of fabulous "tutti frutti/fruit salad" stones. Sometimes they will use semi-precious stone colors such as amethyst and onyx. The pieces are constructed exactly as a piece of fine jewelry would be, and I am sure the same jewelers working on real jewelry also made these exquisite imitations. My saddest loss was not being able to buy a Cartier copy of an Art Deco Egyptian Revival scarab brooch they made but I will never forget that piece. You never forget the ones that get away...and sadly several have. (I am so thrilled to report that in 2012, I am now the happy owner of this breathtaking  and extremely rare and unique piece. Sometimes it can take years to obtain the jewel of your dreams)

For years it remained one of those jewelry mystery marks that remained unsolved to us American collectors. I had noticed the company name listed in the Theodor Fahrner Jewelry Book of registered German companies not as KP, but as Knoll & Preziger (misspelled) and that piqued my interest.(Just the name was listed, there was absolutely no information on the company itself). I have been a passionate collector of some of the most marvelous German art deco sterling and paste jewelry with a mystery mark of KP in a shield with the letters intersecting  for years trying to discover who this mark belonged to with no avail. I tried researching the name every way possible and all I would get on occasion would be watch auctions but nothing that showed the trademark. One day as I was researching I could not believe what I found. An eBay auction from a seller in Uruguay of all places who was selling a 1953 Atlanta Post catalogue containing German jewelry and accessory companies. The seller listed the names of the companies in the auction and photos of many pages. There it was. A photo of jewelry with the KP Trademark and the company name. Buying this catalogue was one of the most important purchases I’ve ever made.(After I received it, I saw that all of the ads from the companies were in German, but the descriptions in the back of all of the items were in Spanish. The writing on the cover translated to "Journal of International Trade. Spanish Edition". Many Germans had emigrated to South America and there was a large market for their products). In all my years of research this was probably one of my happiest and proudest moments. To be able to connect and confirm all of the information together. I am also proud to be the person who has been able to give Knoll & Pregizer the respect and admiration for posterity that it deserves, since before the publication of this website virtually nothing about this company was known.

This 1953 catalogue page shown below confirms without a doubt the attribution of jewelry marked KP Sterling Germany (or KP 925 or KP 935) to Knoll & Pregizer of Pforzheim, Germany.

What is fascinating is in their long history they made Victorian/Art Nouveau, the garland style jewelry popular in English Edwardian and French Belle Époque and the MOST extraordinary (and my favorite) breathtaking Art Deco jewelry. Because of the 1953 catalogue page you can see the change in their style of jewelry after WWII. Amazingly, I have discovered several patents dated from 1906 thru 1975 registered in Germany, France, the United States, and the UK. The jewelry was ALWAYS made in Germany except for the movements to their timepieces which were Swiss. The patents approved and registered for other countries were to protect their designs/inventions that were exported as well as their trademark. Many of their watches were made in 14K gold as well as sterling silver with pastes or marcasites. I've seen Swiss movements marked Deauville, Goldsiegel/KP, FIG, LOTOS, A. Nicolet Watch Co., FHF, and others that mean nothing to me (this is besides the two Glycines now seen) Some are 15 Jewels, some 17 jewels. Except for one piece having Nicolet on the dial and A. Nicolet on the movement (for Armand Nicolet Co) with "Knoll & Pregizer, Sterling West Germany" INSIDE the case, or movements specifically made for them marked KP/Goldsiegel (A brand of theirs) or just KP, they made the cases and had someone make the movements for them (although the 1962 trademark registration covers movements).
There is a separate trademark registration for them here in the US just for their watch business aside from the jewelry, and I have found German patents for watch crystals (such as used on the KP/Goldsiegal watch I own) in 1939 as well as 1952, and the last one in 1975 for "Watch cases with band connection for flexible bracelets" and that's in addition to other patents for jewelry mechanisms going back as far as 1906. The patents were also registered in England and France, as KP was always a big exporter to those countries as well as the US and Canada...even Australia and South America. They were a full-fledged jewelry manufacturer in every sense of the word, and advertising their watches in trade magazines including a 1973 Swiss watch magazine.

I now know they also made jewelry in 14K/585 gold, 18K/750 gold and 9ct gold (for export to England). This site is always a work in progress and I am updating my information as I make new discoveries.

No matter what the piece or when it was made, the markings are the same. The K and P are ALWAYS intersecting at the bottom as shown in the advertising and images below. The letter are ALWAYS in CAPITALS. Sometimes the shield/flower might be lightly struck but the letters will ALWAYS intersect. I have already noticed some eBay sellers trying to attribute pieces marked KP in a rectangle or K.P.(notice the periods) Sterling as Knoll & Pregizer. Or low end base metal plated jewelry with a cheap hangtag of KP in script (They don't mark with script letters and they DON'T USE HANGTAGS). I cannot emphasize this to you enough. The mark MUST match their registered trademark.There are some other jewelers out there that have the initials KP which are stamped on the jewelry. Be vigilant and wary because misattributions abound.  It was a requirement that registered German manufacturers of precious metal items had to be stamped with the fineness mark for metal and their registered trademark as they were responsible for assaying their own jewelry, and Knoll & Pregizer made a lot of jewelry for export. I have several exquisite pieces destined for the French market as they are marked with the swan in an oval for small silver articles imported into France. The different grades of silver fineness used were to fulfill the minimum silver requirements for export to certain countries, but the majority destined for the European market were made in 935 silver which would cover export to every country except Poland whose minimum was 940. Pieces marked Sterling or Sterling Germany were destined for the Canadian and/or US market. On certain pieces they will be marked Sterling Germany and the European silver fineness in order to be sold everywhere. Throughout my collecting and research in addition to Europe, the US and Canada, I have found pieces sold as far as Australia, South America and South Africa.

One of the reasons that Knoll & Pregizer probably fell into obscurity is because, as far as I can tell, except for trade journals and catalogues, they did absolutely no advertising in the way Theodor Fahrner did. They were not known as a "brand", except for their watches. (Someone once sent me a picture of their gorgeous LOTOS paste watch in a marked LOTOS velvet case). Their jewelry seems to have been made for the carriage trade and sold in the finest upscale jewelry and department stores in Paris, London, New York (they had a US rep and their trademark and patents were registered here) and other major cities across the globe. Pforzheim firms (not just Knoll & Pregizer) made some of the best paste jewelry I've ever seen.  I have a magnificent KP art deco necklace that I purchased in its original unsigned jewelry store box, satin lined inside and leather on the outside with gold tooling. It came from a Massachusetts estate and by the markings on the jewel I can tell it was made for the European market. This dazzling piece was probably bought on holiday in Europe in the 1920s or 1930s at a fine jewelry store...a time of unparalleled glamor and luxury (despite the Depression and the coming of WWII). It looks exactly like carved jade and diamonds and was cared for as such, by the beautiful,almost pristine condition it is in 90 years later. I believe that the best of KP jewelry was sold not just to women who couldn't have the real thing, but to many women who COULD, and considered it "travel jewelry"...copies of their real pieces that they could wear that would fool the eye, but not to be afraid to wear for fear of losing or being robbed of their real jewels. However, fine paste jewelry itself was always desirable on its own...not just as a copy of real jewels for the "have nots". Many women of discriminating taste and style wore paste jewels lavishly, and no one would be the wiser that they were not wearing Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels.  Stores such as Asprey in London sold and advertised paste jewelry, and I have a 1930s advertisement of theirs showing a page of jewels with a paste watch looking very much like my Knoll & Pregizer deco watch below, along with double clip brooches, ear clips, pendant earrings, rings and bracelets that would be undetectable to the eye. Jewelry stores like that would have sold the pieces in their own fitted cases, not identifying the jewelry as an outside manufacturer. In the US, there were companies making sterling paste jewelry such as Diamonbar by Wachenheimer in Providence, RI, and New York firms such as Fishel Nessler and Ciner. Other companies were making exquisite reproductions of fine jewelry in rhodium plated metal with the finest paste stones such as Trifari, Mazer, and DuJay as noted in 1934 and 1936 Saks Fifth Avenue ads I have where the copy would say "reproduced from a fine jeweler's piece".

Like many incredible jewelers of the past, all good things must come to an end. By what I have seen of the gold pieces I believe these were made while the company was winding down in the 1960s-1970s. Nothing is as grand or as extraordinary as their heyday up until the late 30s and the start of World War II. I do have several pieces marked West Germany that are post WWII and lovely, but I still think the pre-war pieces were the best. As with every manufacturer, they made different qualities of jewelry for different markets and price points. As I've continued to collect I've found the same models made with less fine manufacturing techniques for lower end production. Unfortunately, as the company was nearing its end in the 1970s, they made some of the most atrocious pieces I have ever seen. To see them go from the magnificence of their early days to some of the ugliest, modernist monstrosities, was very sad indeed.

Marks:
KP Sterling Germany
KP Sterling (usually with a retailer or mystery mark)
KP Sterling Birks in SCRIPT or CAPS (For Birks in Canada)I need to add a caveat for these Birks pieces. ONLY if it is marked Birks WITH the KP trademark was it made by Knoll & Pregizer. Many other companies made jewelry for Birks. If it does not have the KP mark then it is NOT KP.
KP 800 (This is the lowest amount of silver, also referred to as "Coin Silver" or Continental Silver used in Europe)
KP 830
KP 925
KP 935
KP Sterling West Germany
KP 925 or 0.925 West Germany
KP 585 or 0.585 (14K) West Germany
KP 750 or 0.750(18K) West Germany
KP 9ct for export to England
KP Metal/Rhodiant- I believe this jewelry to be c.1960 or later and made for the lower end market. Rhodiant is some type of rhodium-like plating although my research turns up very little about it. I have only seen 3 pieces marked as such--a paste lapel watch and a necklace and earring set with no other silver fineness mark...which regardless of how it tests I believe to be nothing more than plated metal.  I know from trademark applications to the US in 1962 for their jewelry and watches, they covered precious metals (gold/silver) and "their alloys". Every piece I have from pre-WWII and for many pieces after are all precious metals except for my 1950s earrings where the inside of the clip mechanism on the earring is marked "metal" and the outside "sterling", obviously to cut costs.


*****Knoll & Pregizer KP REPRODUCTION ALERT*****
I have added a pair of earrings to the album that have been making the rounds on eBay as recently as September 2011. (Now in 2012 I have seen at least 15 pairs of these sold this year alone).  I bought my pair shown below about 10 years ago on eBay knowing full well they were reproductions and not authentic deco paste, but I never took any notice of the KP mark. My first pair of art deco paste reproduction earrings were, in fact, purchased in person, by me, at the Chelsea Antiques Fair in London 16 years ago while on vacation. At the time I knew little about paste jewelry and nothing of reproductions and believed them to be completely authentic, until I saw my English "antique" earrings start to turn up by the boatload a few years later on eBay sold by a host of different sellers. Very expensive but important lesson learned. Authentic period earrings were not made in huge multiples in different colors. The same earrings could not possibly be sold by a multitude of sellers at the same time and be original. This has nothing to do specifically with KP, just reproductions in general, so from my experience I know this has been going on for at least that amount of time, probably longer. A friend alerted me to a pair recently on eBay and I said "I have those" and pulled my exact pair out.  Sure enough, there it was. The KP trademark. Apparently these reproductions were made from an authentic pair of KP earrings that were used to make the mold.  I know they are different earrings made at different times because they have different surmounts from mine. The ones I saw are brand new, and mine have the patina of age, so this means they have been making this earring for at least 10 years.   Usually KP put their trademarks on the screwback fitting (HINT: Authentic early KP earrings were made as screwbacks, not pierced,because that was not the style at the time. Many KP earrings will forever remain unidentified because of conversion to pierced earrings/posts and the removal of the KP trademark on the fitting) and not the jewel itself, but I do have an authentic pair of KP earrings where they are marked on the back of the earring like these. The earring I am showing is the only reproduction piece I have seen thus far. I am fairly certain that at that time years ago when the original earring was copied, the mark meant nothing to whomever manufactured them, they just liked the style. I have not seen mention of the KP mark in the auctions yet, but it is only a matter of time before someone tries to sell these as authentic. See my description below to know what to look for.

Founded in 1887 by Theodor Eberhard Friedrich Knoll and Friedrich Pregizer.
Friedrich Pregizer left the company in 1907 and was replaced by Carl Knoll.

Registered in 1887 (Theodor Fahrner by Schmundt-Weber-Becker book page 68) misspelled.

Along with jewelry, they made watches signed Goldsiegel(Gold Seal) registered in 1938, KAPE registered in 1935 and 1938 and also signed LOTOS (registration date c.1940). I have a very early and elegant art deco paste watch that has no name on it except SWISS on the front of the face and the KP mark on the back along with a registration number. I've recently discovered a watch they made marked NICOLET for the Armand Nicolet Co. from  Switzerland post WWII. Other marks on their watch faces include LOTOS, KAPE, KP, Corundo, Knoll & Pregizer,or the names of retailers or companies where KP manufactured the watch cases for them. Sometimes, but not always, the movements themselves will be marked KP. They probably had a Swiss company manufacture those movements for them. One of my most interesting purchases was of a wonderful 14K Man's Military Watch. In 1971 Knoll & Pregizer won the prestigious Golden Rose of Baden-Baden award for excellence for their watch model named "Evening Star". This award was considered the "Oscar" to German watch manufacturers. (found in the publication "Baden-Württemberg" in Google Books).

I have found many patents of theirs in my research including the earliest ear clip finding patented in Germany in 1906 and later registered here in the US in 1912. In contrast, the first American company to patent an ear clip was Ballou in 1934 so they were way ahead of their time.

KNOLL & PREGIZER, of 16, Goethestrasse, Pforzheim, Germany
455 Zugang 1992-53 Nr. 372 Post WWII Archive Records that show they were registered as a business from 1948-1973 (many of the business registration records for German jewelers were destroyed during the war hence the date of 1948 for KP) however I have found a patent for a watch crystal as late as 1975. This, along with the 1887 date of registration as a company from the Theodor Fahrner book, patent info, and other trade publications confirms that Knoll & Pregizer were in business from 1887 thru AT LEAST 1975. In 1945 Pforzheim was bombed by the RAF and so many factories sustained damage and many casualties, so the official Pfozheim records show Knoll & Pregizer from 1948 onward because many of the previous records were lost. Anything regarding their jewelry, watches or factory during WWII is sketchy as I don't believe they were allowed to export anything out of Germany past 1939.Please see some U.S. Trademark information for Knoll & Pregizer that I found recently in the United States that was registered in 1962/1963 by Walter Knoll who ran the company during those years for costume and precious jewelry as well as watches.  You can see these documents at at the end of the album. The trademark expired in 1987, but since I have not found any information about the company since 1975, I am "assuming" they were given a 25 year US trademark. Will update if I find any further information.

I found a listing from the 1970s of Der Deutsch-Amerikaner von heute:Deutsch-Amerikanisches Adressbuch fur due-by Stefan Deubel Page 383:
US Rep: Sterone Corp. 43 W. 61st Street NY, NY. Knoll & Pregizer, Pforzheim Watches & Jewelry

Pforzheim, Germany had hundreds of jewelry manufacturers on par with Providence, RI here in the US. I have many pieces of jewelry just marked Sterling Germany, but **UNLESS THE PIECE IS MARKED KP, IT WAS NOT MADE BY KNOLL & PREGIZER**. This is important to note as it would be IRRESPONSIBLE and UNETHICAL to attribute jewelry to a company without their known trademark. THEY WERE DILIGENT ABOUT MARKING THEIR JEWELRY.


Per his great-great grandson Thomas Wolfgang Maguire on 8-12-09 the family tree is: Theodor Eberhard Friedrich Knoll ( 1851-1928) (Great-Great-Grandfather) ---- Theodor Knoll(Great-Grandfather) (1881-1961)----- Margarete Nestlen nee Knoll (1914-1984) ---- Margrit W. Maguire nee Nestlen (1943) --- Thomas Wolfgang Maguire (1981) His mother Margrit is the granddaughter of Theodor Knoll.


VERY EXCITING NEWS PER GREAT-GRANDSON THOMAS WOLFGANG MAGUIRE ON 9-10-09:
"The History of Knoll & Pregizer according to the Archives in Pforzheim and translated from German." (This is exactly as it was translated, I have not made any grammatical corrections)

"The Knoll Family originates from Schwäbisch Gmünd, there they had a small shop inside their home to make Jewelry for the Areas Jewelry Stores.

After Theodor Eberhard  Friedrich Knoll learned to be Goldsmith  in the Home Business of His Father and learned at a Technical School did he go to The Military. After he left the Military in 1877 did he take up a position as a Apprentice in a Fine Pforzheim Business, after two years he made himself independent and founded a small business in Pforzheim. In 1882 did he take into the company The Merchant and Traveling Imitation Jeweler Friedrich Pregizer. The Company now was run under the Name of Knoll & Pregizer.

The offer was extended to the production of Imitation products using Fine Pour Technique. In the future the company was able to begin thanks to a little competitive pressure to increase their sales steady and even train their own apprentices. There was establishing or further branches and others in Nagold. In 1907 Pregizer resigned from the business.

After the two eldest sons, Carl and Theodor of merchants had completed training in Pforzheim stores, They picked up their father as an employee and left them after 1914, the sole managing director. From the effects of World War I. The production activity (could be maintained only in very restriction. The Nagold branches had to be closed.) Recovering the company after the war, again due to high demand, was relatively quickly.

Carl Knoll, the eldest son and later on the city council had received since 1906 with the departure of Frederick Pregizer transferred the commercial management of the business. He married about 1908 Margarete nee Nestlen with which he had three children, Ilse (born 10.12.1908), Marianne and Walter (both born on 27.5.1911) had. The latter subsequently took over the lead. Erich Keller, son of Ilse Knoll first marriage, was transferred in 1957 by the participation in the business.

Both Life Stories which are steepened the above information is taken to give a great insight into the families and Company history, especially from the Pforzheim Foundation 1879 to 1958. In addition, the city archives has in its files Commercial Papers (Knoll & Pregizer, jewelry and watches factory, manufacture of watches and jewelry, Walter Knoll; Friedenstr 62; Goethe Strasse 16."


All of the pieces and pictures are from my collection except where noted.

Many thanks to my dear friend and colleague Dr. Kristin Rheinwald in Germany who so patiently helped me translate and navigate these German archives. She has been invaluable to me and a wonderful friend.

I would also like to thank the very gracious keeper of the Knoll Family History, Thomas Wolfgang Maguire, great-great grandson and great-grandson of both TEF Knoll & T. Knoll for being so generous sharing his time and family history and wonderful photographs.
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©ROBIN DEUTSCH 2009-2014. No information or images may be used without prior consent. Please feel free to contact me at: Knollandpregizer@gmail.com
While I am happy to answer any questions you may have regarding Knoll & Pregizer jewelry, I DO NOT OFFER APPRAISALS.

I am a member of:
The American Society of Jewelry Historians (ASJH)
Association for the Study of Jewelry and Related Arts (ASJRA)
Jewelcollect/Jewelry Ring
Costume Jewelry Collectors Int'l
Private Collector and Jewelry Researcher/Historian
My article on Knoll & Pregizer was published in Vintage Fashion & Costume Jewelry Magazine Vol. 19, No. 3, 2009
Lender to the exhibit "Finer Things" at Stan Hywet Hall & Gardens. Akron, Ohio. April-October 2012
http://pinterest.com/knollpregizer/
Date(s): June 16, 2009. Album by Robin Deutsch. Photos by Robin Deutsch. 1 - 114 of 114 Total.
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Knoll & Pregizer KP Paste Jewelry Advertisement 1953
From the 1953 Atlanta Post Catalogue that was filled with German companies selling jewelry, handbags, eyeglasses, etc.

This FINALLY connects and confirms the KP mark as Knoll & Pregizer. Pforzheim, Germany. The KP trademark with their intersecting letters is consistent with all their markings.

The bottom reads Knoll & Pregizer-Pforzheim.
Fabrik feiner Juwelen-Imitationen
(Manufacturers of Fine Jewelry Imitations)


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Knoll & Pregizer KP Paste Jewelry Advertisement 1953
Another page of gorgeous imitation jewelry by KP from the 1953 Atlanta Post Catalogue.

You can see how different the style of jewelry is in these 1950s pieces compared to most of the deco pieces that I collect.


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Knoll & Pregizer KP Watches Advertisement 1953
The 1953 Atlanta Post catalogue also yielded this wonderful page of Knoll & Pregizer watches. The ones that look like diamonds are sterling and paste. It's possible some of the others are 14K as KP did make watches in gold.

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Germany Paste Deco Front Sautoir
Probably my most extraordinary piece of KP bought from one of my dearest friends and incredible collector Cathy Gordon. Cathy's site is www.imageevent.com/bluboi.Thank you Cathy for the pictures in 4-6-7-8

It's quite long and breaks apart into two bracelets of which I have not figured out how to do and probably never will. Look how exquisite the pendant is, and the entire necklace chain and top part of the pendant is made out of baguettes.

This is one of the best pieces of KP I have and will treasure not just for it's beauty, but for the fact that it came from such a wonderful friend. c.1925


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Close-up of the Knoll & Pregizer KP Paste Pendant
Incredible workmanship.The beautiful millegrain metal work, the hand setting of the stones, the large faceted unfoiled glass faux emerald, even the baguettes...these are high table old cut baguettes that are not made anymore. This piece has to be seen in person to be appreciated. It is exquisite.

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Paste Germany Deco Sautoir  Back
Back view. When you look at these pieces there is no difference in their construction compared to real jewelry. Probably the jewelers that worked on these pieces also worked on fine jewelry in their careers.

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Paste Germany Deco Marks
Close up of the workmanship and marks including the KP registered trademark. These hallmarks cover export to just about any country in Europe or the US and Canada.

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Germany Deco Close
This is a closeup of the most unusual of the marks on the necklace. It is the initials EG on either side of the Jewish star. Someone once floated the idea that the jeweler, because he was Jewish and working in Germany during the 1930s, had to include that in his stamp, the same way he probably would have had to wear a Jewish star around the sleeve on his arm. But I don't know if this is necessarily true, as I have found during more research there were German jewelers working much earlier who also have stars of David in their marks, so for now this will have to remain a mystery.
Several KP pieces I own have other jeweler or sponsors marks, and they are usually the ones for export. The fact that this piece is marked both 935 (European sterling fineness mark) and STERLING GERMANY means this could be exported to any European country or the US/Canada or other countries which would have required the STERLING mark for fineness and GERMANY for country of origin.


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Knoll & Pregizer Sterling Marks
935-Sterling Mark
KP-Knoll & Pregizer
Jewish Star with EG on either side-Probably the jeweler who worked on the piece.
There's also another indecipherable mark that is probably for import to another European country.

You can see close up even after so many years how wonderful the millegrain mounting is with  brilliant, masterfully bead set stones just like real diamonds would be. All of this was hand done.


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Knoll & Pregizer KP Sterling Paste Deco Paste Bracelet
c. 1930. This had baguettes in very bad condition so I removed them all with the plan to have the bracelet restored one of these days.

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Paste Deco braceletc. c.1925
Edwardian/Deco Bracelet
"The Cathy Gordon Collection"
www.imageevent.com/bluboi


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Knoll & Pregizer KP Sterling Paste  Deco Faux Jade Bracelet
c. 1925 One of the finest pieces in my collection. So exquisite, looks like platinum, jade and diamonds.

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Paste Deco Faux Jade Bracelet Clasp
I think they covered all of the import/export bases with these 6 marks:

Germany
Sterling
935
M
KP
3


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Knoll & Pregizer KP Germany Faux Jade Paste Dress Clip
This matches my bracelet and is actually quite small.I was able to find another one of these so I have a pair, there is a slight difference in color between the greens.

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Knoll & Pregizer KP GermanyFaux Jade Paste Clip Back
Always as pretty as the front.
Marked:
Sterling
Germany
KP


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Knoll & Pregizer KP Art Deco Paste  Bracelet c1930s
This is typical 1930s Hollywood glamour. Construction of heavy, solid sterling silver with stones set in open back mounts, each of the 6 circular panels contains 21 prong set unfoiled emerald pastes in a bow tie motif surrounded by bead set white pastes and channel set baguettes set east and west alternating with oblong pavé set connector links. Hidden safety clasp. Marked Sterling Germany KP and the number 27 on the tongue of the clasp. Every stone is perfect. This is an exact imitation of a fine emerald and diamond platinum art deco bracelet, no one would know the difference. A superb example of Knoll & Pregizer at its best.

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Art Deco Paste Bracelet c1930s
The unfoiled round green pastes are all prong set, the round pastes are bead set and the baguettes are channel set.  Marked KP Sterling Germany 27.

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1920s Knoll & Pregizer  KP Sterling Germany Deco Paste Clip
This beautiful use of color and style of this clip has an Indian influence so prevalent in art deco jewelry. A mixture of calibré-cut,baguette,round and even a triangular stone. Bullet nose emerald colored cabochons on either side of the top. Wonderful workmanship and extremely high quality.

Similar clip also by KP in European Designer Jewelry by Ginger Moro in her German section page 127. The reference is only to KP on the clip. There was no knowledge of Knoll & Pregizer at that time.


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c.1920s Knoll & Pregizer KP Deco Dress Clip Back
Marked Sterling Germany and Makers Marks KP. The workmanship even from the back is extraordinary. Notice how the clear calibré and baguette stones are set in open back settings, even though they are foiled. You only see silver foiled pastes on older jewelry. If you ever see gold foil backed stones in these settings, it means the stones are replacements. (Update. Now in 2012 I know Swarovski is making new rhinestones with silver foil backs. They are a different cut than these very old stones, but wanted to let you all know).

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Birks Knoll & Pregizer KP Germany Sterling Paste Deco Tree
Perfect little pastes in millegrain settings and channel set squares on the top of the pot. It's just exquisite and PERFECT!!!

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Birks Knoll & Pregizer KP Sterling Paste Tree Back
Marked Birks in script possibly for Birks-Dingwall. There is some conflict between dating and usage of the Birks signature in script and the one in CAPS. Henry Birk & Sons absorbed many companies over the years in Canada, and they used different fonts in their ads and catalogues (sometimes even during the same year) strikings on jewelry, and also depending on whether something was an article of jewelry or for their silverware and hollowware. 1933 is when Birks-Dingwall merged.The style and the scale of the jewelry says to me earlier as does the non-rhodium plating, but I will leave Birks-Dingwall as the connection until I find out otherwise.

Please remember that UNLESS these signed Birks pieces are ALSO marked with the KP trademark then they were NOT made by Knoll & Pregizer. I have KP jewelry with both script and CAPS marks.

There were many German suppliers making jewelry for Birk's. Knoll & Pregizer was one of many.


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Birks and Knoll & Pregizer Marks
Birks in Script (Retailer)
Sterling Silver
KP Makers Mark

This was the first time I ever saw Birks in script. I was fortunate while researching to find the Birks-Dingwall mark in an ad that confirmed the script signature, however, realize German jewelry stopped being exported to the US and Canada in 1939 due to the war, and resumed after WWII.

Until I can find out anything more accurate, I am going to "assume" these Birks in script pieces were for the Birks-Dingwall stores. My research is still continuing. I dont't think at this point in time the signature can be used for dating with any kind of accuracy.

Birks is considered the "Tiffany of Canada" and a very high end retailer.


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Birks Dingwall mark
This is the mark for Birks Dingwall that I found in a 1940 ad.  It matches the Birks in script on the back of my little tree brooch and the only Birks  script mark found so far on KP jewelry. I believe my tree is certainly before 1940. Nothing was being exported out of Germany past 1939 due to the war.

Per the fantastic sleuthing of my dear friend Meg Andrews below, she has confirmed D. R. Dingwall was taken over by Henry Birks & Sons in 1933 and renamed Birks-Dingwall.

http://www.virtual.heritagewinnipeg.com/vignettes/window/more/006.htm

I also found in the Winnepeg Free Press dated 10-17-1935 the obituary for D.W. Dingwall (His father was D.R.Dingwall the original founder). "Two years ago it merged with Henry Birks and sons, being the President of Birks-Dingwall Ltd. at the time of his death". This confirms the 1933 merger date of the two companies.


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Fabulous  Knoll & Pregizer KP Sterling Deco Paste Brooch
Marked 935 KP as well as Sterling Germany. 3" long. The top section is 1" in width and the bottom section at it's widest point is 3/4".

935 Sterling Silver millegrain mounting with sugar loaf high dome onyx,amethyst and emerald glass cabochons all bezel set. The narrow central section has square cut faux amethyst pastes and onyx baguettes channel set. The entire setting is open backed with the white pastes bead set. The purple and green colors are more deep and vivid and the pastes whiter than my scanner shows. The extraordinary use of color and different shapes and cuts of stones is very typical of art deco jewelry. One of the best pieces in my collection. c.1925


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Exquisite Knoll & Pregizer KP Germany Sterling Paste Bow
This piece is magnificently made and looks exactly like sapphires and diamonds. Like any manufacturer, some pieces are better than others, but this one defies detection as faux. I own another one of these in faux ruby, and also with some type of coral colored resin (perhaps galalith?) and all 3 of mine have different silver content and marks. 925/935 and Sterling. For sale in Europe and for export to the US/Canada. circa 1930s

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Exquisite Knoll & Pregizer KP Germany Sterling Paste Bow
Back view.

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Exquisite Knoll & Pregizer KP Germany Sterling Bow
Close up of Marks

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Germany Sterling PasteDouble Clip Brooch
c.1930. Sterling silver. This is two dress clips attached to a frame and worn as a brooch. The stones were yellow and dull in horrible condition but they were in open back settings. I soaked it in a bath of vinegar and salt removing all the foil. You would never know this was not platinum and diamonds. I love the mixture of the geometric cuts of stones. Double clip brooches were made by practically every jeweler in the 1930s up to the 1950s whether in real or costume.

If the stones are in CLOSED back settings and they are yellow or greenish, there is NO way to clean them regardless of what a dealer tells you. Yellow,dull stones means there is foil damage and the only fix is to have the item re-stoned or live with it. Since these vintage stones are not made anymore and are of a different cut than a modern rhinestone,I would think very carefully about spending a lot of money for a piece that is not in great condition. Yellow is damage and decreases the value of the piece.


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Knoll & Pregizer KP Germany Sterling PasteDouble Clip Brooch
The dress clips are shown removed from their frame and can be worn seperately. Terrible photo. These are so stunning in person.

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Germany Sterling Double Clip PasteBrooch
Marked Sterling Germany KP and 5 on each clip. Here you can see the stones are all set open back and the damaged foil removed and look like real diamonds. You cannot remove the foil if the the back is solid silver.

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Knoll & Pregizer 935 Sterling Double Clip Paste  Brooch
Marked KP 935 c. 1930s. Breaks apart into two dress clips.

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Knoll & Pregizer 935 Sterling Double Clip Paste Brooch
Split apart as two dress clips and the frame. One of the large clear prong set stones on the frame is a replacement (the foil is gold, not silver, and it was glued in with the prong not properly pushed back) but it's beautiful the way the frame is set with stones on either side that integrate into the design when the clips are in place. I have a feeling the panels in the middle were broken off, but when connected, this holds well and no problem wearing it.

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Knoll & Pregizer 935 Sterling Double Clip Paste Brooch
Each clip is marked 935 KP

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Germany Day/Night Paste Brooch
Channel set clear and sapphire calibré cut pastes. Probably depicting night and day with the pearl as the moon in the night sky.
The brooches of the early art deco era are small in scale. C-clasp.
Marked 935 KP c.1915-1920


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Knoll & Pregizer Sterling Paste Tiger Brooch
Inspired by Cartier, this beautiful cat is magnificently sculpted out of 935 sterling silver and has black enamel stripes alternating with white bead set pastes between the stripes, on the face, tail and paws and green paste cabochon eyes. You can see the sensuous movement of the cat from the back.  Marked 935 on the back paw and KP on the front paw. Measures 2" wide from the head to the end of the tail and 1" high. This is a heavy piece. Made in Germany. c.1930s (The red is from the light on my scanner, the piece is completely black and white)

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Knoll & Pregizer KP 935 Sterling Paste Penguins
This tiny pin is of two charming penguins. Beautiful millegrain metal work. Bezel set paste bodies. One of the large stones is a replacement. Missing one tiny red eye. Black Enamel. Rhodium Plating. c.1930s Marked 935 KP. Another rare piece with the jewelers mark of EG on either side of a Star of David. I had it for a few years before I noticed it.

This now resides (as it should) in the collection of Margrit Maguire and her son Thomas Wolfgang Maguire. The granddaughter and great-grandson of Theodor Knoll.

Ironically, a couple of years after sending this to Thomas and his mom, I found another one of these but with a "C" clasp, marked only 935 KP, mine were also missing the ruby eyes (they are so tiny) This tells me that Knoll & Pregizer repeated styles over the years, as the one with the "C" clasp that I now own would have been  earlier than the one in the photo. I have since seen multiples of several of their novelty type pins also made years apart.


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Knoll & Pregizer KP Germany Paste Brooch
Marked Sterling Germany KP
The brooch is in gorgeous condition and unfortunately it is the scanner that makes the stones look yellow. In person it is vivid and much whiter and sparkly.


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Knoll & Pregizer KP Germany Paste Brooch Back
Marked Sterling Germany KP
All the baguettes are backed with silver foil in open back settings.


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Knoll & Pregizer KP-blue-paste necklace c1953
This necklace is extraordinary and I would have thought it was from the 1930s but if you look at the necklace chain and the bows they match the jewelry ad in #1 from the 1953. Ads are a priceless tool for research. I bought this from my friend Evelyn Yallen at  www.intotemptation.com

Now happily part of the Robin Deutsch Collection. Marked Sterling 'Made in Germany' KP. This is definitely post WWII. It is a small choker length, very typical of 1950s jewelry.


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Knoll & Pregizer KP-Paste animals c1920s
A charming array of sterling and paste animals. A peacock and a lizard.

These belong to my dear friend Evelyn Yallen. Visit her website at
www.intotemptation.com


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Knoll & Pregizer KP Paste Peacock
Now part of The Robin Deutsch Collection. Look how brilliant these pastes still are after all these years. I love the tiny ruby cabochon eyes and little feet.

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Paste Peacock Back

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Peacock Marks
Good view of the markings.
Germany
Sterling
KP


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Knoll & Pregizer KP-Paste earrings
I never cease to be amazed at how beautiful their jewelry is. Another wonderful piece I bought from my friend Evelyn Yallen
www.intotemptation.com

Now happily part of The Robin Deutsch Collection.


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Knoll & Pregizer KP Deco Sterling Emerald Paste Earrings
Exquisite Art Deco faux "Emerald and Diamond" paste pendant earrings. One of the finest pair of Knoll & Pregizer earrings I've ever had the pleasure of owning. Art Deco in style, the surmounts are all pierced and millegrained sterling silver with a crown of bead set pastes, a central large bezel set large round paste with 3 channel set baguette pastes underneath, terminating in a double row of sterling, asymmetrical in length, solid articulated bezels set with round paste stones with open back prong set unfoiled glass emerald cut faceted "emeralds" hanging from them, each with a bezel set baguette and square cut stone above them. The emeralds are more green in person. All of the clear stones are set in open back settings with silver foiled pastes. Each screwback is marked Sterling Germany 935 KP with a letter P. The tops are 1/2" wide and the length including the longest drop is 2 1/4" long.

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Earrings Back
On the screwback it is marked Germany Sterling 935 KP and a letter P. The letters P & M appear on several different jewels I own and have no idea what they mean. Because of the hallmarks, these were able to be sold in Europe or exported to the US and Canada.

A caveat. If you hate screwbacks and ever desire to have your earrings converted to pierced I BEG of you, get the screwback fittings back from the jeweler and keep them in the same box with the earrings and a a note that you had them replaced. More KP earrings have probably been lost to posterity due to conversions. The fitting is where 95% of the time the jewel is trademarked..rarely on the jewel itself. Authentic earrings from this time frame were not pierced or clips.


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Knoll & Pregizer Sterling Deco Paste Bracelet
Marked Sterling Germany KP. Faux "sapphires and diamonds" . Beautiful unfoiled faux sapphire prong set glass stones and bead and bezel set clear pastes in sterling  mimicking sapphires and diamonds in a platinum setting. The pavéd sections are in the form of leaves. Very real looking. This might be very late 1930s, but It has the feel of their later jewelry and I have a similar brooch with faux emerald stones and these pavé leaves marked KP that was re-assayed in England with English markings and a date letter for 1961, also showing that they re-used castings to make other jewelry items, but I can't be absolutely sure about the date of this bracelet. Not everything right after WWII was automatically marked West Germany, but this was for export since it is marked "Sterling Germany and no European fineness such as 925, 935, etc.

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Knoll & Pregizer Sterling Paste Deco Bracelet
I find using a scanner much better for certain jewelry items and think you can see in the picture next to the ones taken with my camera that it's far superior..you can really see the detail and the beauty in this stunning bracelet.

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Sterling Paste Germany Bracelet
Taken with my camera.

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Sterling Paste  Germany Bracelet
Finished as beautifully as the front. All stones, even the foiled ones are in open back settings just as a fine jewelry bracelet would be made.

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Detail of Bracelet hallmarks
Marked Sterling Germany KP.This is an instance where you can't see the shield/flower in the punch, but as always, the letters KP are intersecting. If someone attributes something to KP and the letters do not look exactly like this, it is not Knoll & Pregizer.

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Stunning Knoll & Pregizer KP 925 Paste Double Clip Brooch
c. 1930s. Mimicking platinum, diamonds and rubies, this can be broken apart into two dress clips or worn together as a single brooch as shown.

Marked 925 KP Sterling on the back of each clip back also numbers 5 and 6 that correspond with the placement on the frame.

From "The Meg Andrews Collection"


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Knoll & Pregizer KP sterling paste pendant c.1909
Edwardian/Belle Epoque. This is a beautiful example of an early all white lavaliere made of sterling and pastes mimicking a pierced platinum setting with diamonds set in millegrain mountings.  It's a wonderful piece of early 20th century jewelry. Circa 1909 as the pear shaped drop is used in the 1909 pictures. Beautiful, elegant and much smaller in size than the picture shows. Hanging from a fine sterling chain.

Formerly part of "The Cathy Gordon Collection" and now part of the Robin Deutsch Collection...thanks for the picture Cathy!
www.imageevent.com/bluboi


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Knoll & Pregizer KP info
Goldsiegel-Uhren (Gold Seal Watches) Kape & Lotos are for watches. KP is always on the jewelry but also marked on the back of the watch cases. A couple of the movements on the Goldsiegel and Lotos watches I own have the KP mark on the movements. Most of the times the movements are just marked SWISS and probably from generic movement makers.

http://www.mikrolisk.de


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A Magnificent Knoll & Pregizer KP 925 Sterling Paste Diadem
c. 1900. Found in records of an online European auction several years ago. This is a magnificent example of the Edwardian/Belle Epoque jewelry they were making at the time. Made from  sterling 925 vermeil the millegrain edges, perfect old cut pastes, knife edge settings. Just gorgeous. I can't imagine any woman wearing that and not thinking she was wearing anything less than a real diamond diadem.

http://katalog.auktionshaus-wendl.com/de/cmd/d/o/119.57.695/auk/57/p/1/


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Knoll & Pregizer 1909
Research from my dear friend and JC member Dr. Kristin Rheinwald of Germany.

These are magnificent copies done in sterling and paste of jewelry done in the garland style. Very typical of English Edwardian or French Belle Epoque.


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Knoll & Pregizer Tiara 1909
Research from my dear friend and JC member Dr. Kristin Rheinwald of Germany.

Exquisite tiara done in sterling and paste. Edwardian/Belle Epoque.


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Theodor Knoll 1882-1961
I am thrilled to be in contact with the great-great grandson of Theodor Eberhard Friedrich Knoll, founder of Knoll & Pregizer, a lovely young man named Thomas Wolfgang Maguire. He saw my article at Illusion Jewels and contacted me through Dotty.

This is a picture of founder T.E.F. Knoll's son and Thomas's great-grandfather (and his mother's grandfather) Theodor Knoll who had Knoll & Pregizer as well as "Th.Knoll Co.". Thomas is trying to find out more info about this.

This picture is property of Thomas Wolfgang Maguire and may not be used without his consent.


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Thomas Wolfgang Maguire and Theodor Knoll
Many thanks again to Thomas Wolfgang Maguire for these priceless pieces of history. 8-12-09

This picture is property of Thomas Wolfgang Maguire and may not be used without his consent


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The Knoll Brothers
From Thomas Wolfgang Maguire 8-12-09

This picture is property of Thomas Wolfgang Maguire and may not be used without his consent


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Margarete Theodor & Frieda 1935
Another wonderful family photo from Thomas Wolfgang Maguire 8-12-09

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Journal der Goldschmiedekujnst 1907
Page in the issue describing Friedrich Pregizer leaving the firm on July 1, 1907.

Translation by Thomas Wolfgang Maguire.

I also tranlated this through Google:
Knoll & Pregizer with a branch in Nagold: With the withdrawal of the industrialist Friedrich Pregizer started on 1st July 1907 the company dissolved. The business went on with the company at the recent shareholder Theodor Eberhard Knoll. Carl Knoll is the merchant here, given power of attorney.


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Knoll & Pregizer KP Information Post WWII
Knoll & Pregizer as well as Kollmar & Jourdan. Per Kristin, this is archive information showing the registration dates of these companies mostly post-war WWII. But because of the 1887 registration date in the Fahrner book and this archive, and a 1975 patent I found, it confirms KP was in business from at least 1887-1975.

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Knoll & Pregizer Marks
I have never seen anything with the tree in the oval mark from Th. Knoll & Co. but mostly everything I have Googled related to Freiburg/Silesia has to do with watches and clocks. I am also *assuming" anything produced by them would certainly be way before WWII. Today this area is Świebodzice, Poland. It passed to Polish jurisdiction in 1945.

http://www.mikrolisk.de


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Knoll & Pregizer KP 14K Violet Diamond Basket Brooch
Carved Jade, Amethyst Flower Basket Pin with Diamond, Pearl Accents. Trombone Clasp. Hallmarked 585,(14k), West Germany
and Knoll & Pregizer (KP) mark. Measures 2-1/4 inches tall and 2-inches wide. From the Collection of Christia Schutt. www.grandmasjewelrybox.com

This piece came to me through my friend Christia and shows how imparting knowledge to each other in the world of research is so important. Knoll & Pregizer is known as a costume jewelry company. Their ads even say "Imitation Jewels". In a Post WWII German record I found a listing for KP as "Goldschmuck"-Fine Jewelers (meaning they worked in at least the minimum of 8K gold as well as making imitation jewelry in sterling.) Until I had seen this piece, the only gold jewelry I knew of was their watches. However, I found the registered KP trademark in the US in 1962 as "sellers of precious and imitation jewelry", so the 60s must be when they began making this type of jewelry. They probably decided to go into the fine jew...


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Knoll & Pregizer KP 14K Violet Diamond Basket Brooch
The back of the brooch. German companies used the trombone safety clasps on occasion which is almost always considered a characteristic of French jewelry, although since I have now seen many similar KP flower brooches of for sale,also using ordinary regular rolling clasps as well, they just probably used whatever pin was handy. And I have seen other German companies used the trombone clasp, it proves it is not unique to KP.   These pins are not rare. I have seen at least 5 of them so far since posting this piece. Where there's five (and earrings) trust me, there are many, many more out there.

Since it is marked West Germany and because of the motif and that is was made in gold with real stones, I think this dates the piece to the 1960s-1970s,towards the end of their production to keep them afloat.  This one has subsequently been sold.


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Knoll & Pregizer KP 14K Violet Diamond Basket Brooch
Marked 585 (European mark for 14K) and KP in a blume as shown in #71
From the Collection of Christia Schutt. www.grandmasjewelrybox.com


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KP 14K Violet Diamond Basket Brooch
Marked West Germany (Post WWII)along with the 585. Because of the motif and workmanship I feel this piece was made in the 1960s-1970s.

From the Collection of Christia Schutt. www.grandmasjewelrybox.com


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Lotos Knoll & Pregizer KP 935 Sterling Marcasite Watch
c.1950s Marked LOTOS Swiss Made.

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Lotos Knoll & Pregizer KP 935 Sterling Marcasite Watch
The leather watch strap is identical to the one shown in the ad from 1953 above.  I've also confirmed the date of the 1950s based upon the numerical marking on the back which is a little later than my Nicolet Knoll & Pregizer watch case that was manufactured in West Germany. The watch is in nice condition despite several marcasites missing and it keeps very good time.

The inside of the watch case is marked 935. The movement is marked SWISS. LOTOS. KP trademark in the  flower. SEVENTEEN 17 JEWELS UnADJUSTED.


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LOTOS Knoll & Pregizer KP 935 Sterling Marcasite Watch
The back of the case has the KP trademark in the flower and numbered 64514. c.1950s

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Knoll & Pregizer Sterling Nicolet Watch
Beautiful Knoll & Pregizer sterling guilloché yellow enamel watch with pink roses and green leaves from the 1950s with a double corded band and vermeil clasp. Keeps perfect time. 17 Jewels. Nicolet stands for the Armand Nicolet watch company that began in 1875 in Tramelan, Switzerland. Knoll & Pregizer seems to have been one of the jewelry companies that made the watch cases for them.

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Knoll & Pregizer Sterling Nicolet Watch
Close up of the lovely face. Marked Nicolet 17 Jewels. The gold plating on the lugs have worn off.

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Knoll & Pregizer Sterling Nicolet Watch
Marked 64287 and the KP mark in a flower. I opened up the watch case and removed the movement. The inside of the case is marked Knoll & Pregizer. Sterling. Made in West Germany. So this is definitely post WWII c. 1950s or later.

The movement itself is marked A.Nicolet & Co. (Armand Nicolet & Co.) SWISS. SEVENTEEN JEWELS. UNADJUSTED.


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1920s Knoll & Pregizer Sterling Deco Paste Watch
Fabulous Art Deco 1920s Knoll & Pregizer Sterling Watch with old cut paste stones set onto the watch and 4 links of the band mimicking platinum and diamond watches that were so popular during the art deco period.  The remaining portion of the band is double corded with a sterling silver clasp. The arabic numerals and hands are blue enamel and the white face has no name.  The winding stem has a faux paste sapphire cabochon. This is a beautiful example of a sterling and paste watch from the 1920s. The missing stone has been replaced. The bands at this point in time were very small. 6" long.

This watch is part of the exhibit "Finer Things" at Stan Hywet Hall & Gardens, April-October 2012 in Akron, Ohio.


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1920s Knoll & Pregizer Sterling Deco Paste Watch
One of the rarest pieces to find of Knoll & Pregizer if you are lucky, are their early Art Deco 935 sterling paste watches. While their later production of mens and ladies watches wasn't exceptionally interesting, this one is gorgeous, mimicking the style of platinum and diamond watches made by Cartier. The face has no name, but is marked KP on the back of the watch case and number 18606 which indicates early production. All of the pastes are bead set by hand. Arabic numerals and hands are blue enamel as well as the border around the rectangular face for the minutes. The case itself has a beautiful engraved design around the perimeter, as well as a faux sapphire cabochon on the stem. Swiss Made movement of 15 jewels. The watch case was Made in Germany.

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1920s Knoll & Pregizer Sterling Deco Paste Watch
Marked Swiss on the bottom of the face under the numeral 6 and a double enamel border around the numbers with hash marks for minutes. Some of the stones have darkened but it's in beautiful condition for a piece that is probably at least 90 years old. The rectangular case has beautiful etched work around the perimeter of the case, and out of the several I now have, this is the only one with the faux sapphire cabochon on the winding stem that I just love.

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c.1920s Knoll & Pregizer Sterling Deco Paste Watch
The back of the watch is marked KP within the flower and numbered 18608 which is a very early number. This is probably one of the earliest watches they made as noted by not only the early number, but the striking of the mark which is small and a little different than their later pieces.

As far as dating, I was given to publish a beautiful watch (last two pictures) of a sterling and marcasite piece serial number 19258 from 1938. So since I don't know exactly the range of dates, it's possible this piece is from the 1930s as well. As always circa dating is not definitive, and I don't know if there were different serial numbers used on their branded watches (Lotos, Goldsiegal, etc) and their unbranded watches.


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Knoll & Pregizer Goldsiegel Sterling Paste Watch
Beautiful Goldsiegel (Gold Seal)sterling and paste watch. Sterling expandable band set with pastes that have darkened or slightly yellowed and two safety catches.It looks like there is an extra extender link.  This has a loop for a safety chain which is now gone. Black enamel face. Silver numerals and hash marks for the minutes. There is no brand name on the front of the watch. The square face has beautiful engraving around the perimeter of the watch case.

Goldsiegel (Gold Seal) watches are a trademark of Knoll & Pregizer and were registered July 23, 1938. Although the numerical marking would suggest an earlier date,by the styling and the patented face it is from the 1950s.  It is possible the numerical markings were different for Goldsiegel and Lotos brands.


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Knoll & Pregizer Goldsiegel Sterling Watch Face
Unmarked face, but the movement denotes this as Goldsiegel (Gold Seal) sterling watch by KP. The face is black enamel and the numerals, hands, and minute hash marks are silver. Many of the pastes have darkened but I had to have it for my collection. The jewel-like faceted square watch crystal was patented by Knoll & Pregizer.

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Knoll & Pregizer Goldsiegel Watch Back
Marked STERLING KP and 31765. The KP looks to be double struck. When I opened the case there were no markings engraved inside. Since this is marked STERLING and not 925/935 etc, this was made for export probably to the US or Canada.

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Knoll & Pregizer Goldsiegel Watch Movement
This is what the movements of these watches look like. I can see a fair amount of rust and it's been over wound so it's not working and is not repairable. It is marked Swiss Made. KP trademark. 15 Jewels. Goldsiegel(KP's brand) LXA.  There was probably a Swiss watch company that manufactured the movement for Knoll & Pregizer as can be seen by the KP trademark and their Goldsiegel brand name. The rubies are synthetic. Thank you to my dear friend Carolyn Sunday of www.sundayandsunday.com for her guidance and information.

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Knoll & Pregizer Prince of Wales Feather Paste Pin
This is a delightful brooch, small in scale, 1 " by 1 1/4". High grade sterling silver with bezel set pastes. Marked 935 KP.

Done in the shape of Prince of Wales feathers which is the heraldic badge of the Prince of Wales of England. The real Prince of Wales feathers would have a crown at the bottom holding the 3 feathers together, but it's such a lovely motif. This is a sweet type of (at the time) inexpensive novelty pin that KP made a lot of. The pastes do not fill up the entire design,those little bumps at the bottom give the look of stones without having to set them, so it was cheaper to manufacture.


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Exquisite Knoll & Pregizer Double Clip Paste Brooch
Art Deco from the 1930s. No chic woman would be seen without a pair of these versatile brooches. Not only can it be worn as shown, but the end terminals are tiny dress clips that can be removed and worn on the edge of a neckline, with or without the brooch that can also be worn on its own. Made of 935 Sterling silver. Marked 935 KP on the back of the removable clips.

All of the stones are bead set except for the large round central stones which are bezel set and the baguettes are channel set.

The clip brooch in its complete form measures 2 3/4" x 3/4".


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Knoll & Pregizer Clip Paste Brooch Seperated
Here you can see what a versatile piece of jewelry this really is. The brooch on its own is very beautiful, but then you have the extra option of having a set of dress clips that can be worn alone or along with the brooch.

The brooch on its own measures 1 3/4"  x 3/4" . Each small clip is on 3/4" long tapering to a 1/4 of an inch, and 1/2" wide.


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Back of the Knoll & Pregizer Clips
These show the markings. Each is marked 935 KP at the tip of the clip mechanism.

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Knoll & Pregizer Early Deco Paste Pin
An absolutely exquisite, small and very fine brooch pin by Knoll & Pregizer. From the art deco era but almost Edwardian in style. It has an emerald cut faceted glass faux sapphire set open back in the center surrounded by 10 large bead set clear pastes bordered by tiny bead set pastes with millegrain around the edges all set in heavy 935 sterling silver. This is a weighty piece for something so small in scale. You would swear these are real diamonds and platinum. I have never seen pastes of this age with so much fire and brilliance. My scan could not even capture the beauty of it. The sapphire color is quite deep and the scratches are only visible with a loupe and obviously enlarged by the scanner. Measures 1" long and and 3/4" wide. Marked 935 KP.

It's so striking I'm toying with the idea of having it made into a ring with a gold shank. Today with the miracles of laser, no damage would be done to the piece.


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Knoll & Pregizer Early Deco Paste Pin
Same brooch as in the previous picture but with a black background. I think it shows the stones off more beautifully. However, the stones are totally white but you are seeing the flashes of color from my scanner.

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Knoll & Pregizer Art Deco Barpin
Very sweet 2 1/2" long x 1/2" wide art deco bar pin made of sterling silver. The central element is a bezel set navette paste with 3 channel set faux sapphire paste baguettes on the top and bottom and 3 bead sets pastes on either side in a foliate design edged in millegrain.

Marked Sterling and KP with an unknown mark that I've never seen before either denoting a country or possible jeweler or retailer's mark. c.1925


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Knoll & Pregizer Edwardian Giardinetti Paste Brooch
Truly one of the most unusual and exquisite KP pieces I've ever had. Yes, their deco is 2DIE4, but this little Edwardian treasure is so unusual. C.1910 this is a miniature work of art in the form of a tiny little flower basket. The pierced wire basket is bordered on the top and bottom with tiny little bezel set white pastes sprouting glorious little sapphire and clear paste forget me nots and roses in bezel settings. It's 1 1/4" x 3/4". 'C' Clasp. Extraordinary condition. Marked 935 KP with an unknown jeweler mark. The tiny little 'C' clasp has the mark of the swan which is an import mark for France. C'est Magnifique!

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1930s Knoll & Pregizer Double Clip Paste Deco Brooch
Same brooch as the one in #28,29 and 30. But you can see the wonderful cuts of stones more clearly and how beautifully it's made. It can either be worn complete like this or comes apart as shown above. The workmanship on this piece is really astonishing in person. A complicated design with several cuts of stones. Every stone was hand set by a fine jeweler.

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Knoll & Pregizer Paste West Germany
Beautiful post WWII brooch marked Sterling KP West Germany still made with excellent workmanship.

Stylized bow motif with channel set blue baguettes. All silver foiled stones are set in open back settings. The clear stones are in gorgeous condition. The blue channel set calibré cut stones have a few chips not noticeable except for under a loupe. One of the few pieces of Post WWII KP I own.


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Knoll & Pregizer Set c.1950s
Here you can see the jewelry has the same feel as the 1953 ad shown in #1. By this time I think their jewelry is starting to wind down a bit. This is very typical of 1950s white "diamond" jewelry. The earrings are clip backs but the clipback mechanism is not entirely made of sterling. Inside it is marked "metal", probably to keep costs down. The large stones are open back in prong settings but the other stones are channel or bead set. Still lovely, but the jewelry is becoming a little more pedestrian. Marked Sterling West Germany KP. This particular set came from Australia, so their jewelry was probably exported far and wide.

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Earrings Reproduction Alert
It's now 2014 and these repros are still showing up on ebay...at least twice a month.  I have seen at least 30 pairs if not more over the past year 2013. They are all coming from sellers in England. Please be careful. They are contemporary repros of Knoll & Pregizer and not authentic art deco. Marked KP 925 and SIL in an oval cartouche with 9 ct gold shepherd hooks. I bought these earrings on eBay c.2000 knowing they were reproductions although the seller did not--giving them the benefit of the doubt(I own at least 10 pairs of different styles all purchased over the years from the UK. These are the only paste repros I've seen with a makers mark). I never checked the back because usually they never have markings other than SIL (for Silver) or 925. I looked at the pictures in the auction then pulled out my ten year old pair of earrings and there it was...the KP trademark. These reproductions were made from authentic Knoll & Pregizer earrings which were used to make the molds...

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Earrings Reproduction
The SIL in the oval cartouche was added to the mold. The 925 KP marks are from the original earrings from which the mold was made.  Modern cut rhinestones are sloppily GLUED into the settings and don't even fit the cups properly. Many times you will see the traces of glue under a loupe. The originals would have been hand bead or bezel set like real diamonds. The KP punch is not crisp because who knows how many pairs of these have been spit out from the same mold over the years. Despite the bad lighting, mine show the patina of ten years worth of age. That in itself is a problem because as these repros age, they look more authentically old,especially if you don't know what to look for. The ones I have seen recently are bright and shiny and new.

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Knoll & Pregizer KP Earrings Reproduction
This is as close as I could get to clear pics of the marks. This is the characteristic intersecting KP in the flower/shield but the earrings themselves are crude and poorly finished and not like fine KP quality of the period.
FAKE FAKE FAKE FAKE FAKE FAKE FAKE!!

As an avid collector of European and American paste jewelry,I know reproductions WERE made to deceive and as a novice I paid dearly ,but KP was barely known 10 years ago, and it's just an unfortunate coincidence that these PARTICULAR earrings were made from a signed piece whose mark is now collectible. Due to the vast amount of repro paste jewelry  that has flooded the market over the years, knowledgeable collectors have become wiser.   However, who knows if at some point in the future an unethical manufacturer will knowingly make fakes of KP jewelry, and it is only a matter of time before an inexperienced (honest)or unethical dealer will try to sell these as authentic Knoll & Pregizer, so know what you are buying.


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Knoll & Pregizer Sterling Marcasite Watch 1938
"The Jennifer Stanford Collection"

This beautiful 935 sterling and marcasite watch was Jennifer's great-grandmother's and left to her mother, who in turn left it to Jennifer. Jen's mom was from England, grew up in South Africa and then came to Canada and met her dad in Newfoundland. The watch is engraved with her great-grandmother's name and the date.


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Knoll & Pregizer Sterling Marcasite Watch 1938
"The Jennifer Stanford Collection"

The dating on this watch is a treasure, allowing me and other collectors/dealers to know that the serial number 19258 is from 1938. Marked 935 KP. It's also engraved with her great-grandmother's name Marjorie Wynne and was purchased at A. Fischer Co. Ltd, a South African jeweler and engraver.

Thank you Jennifer for the pictures and information on this beautiful and sentimental piece.


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Knoll & Pregizer Trademark USA 1962
This is Knoll & Pregizer's registered trademark filed by Walter Knoll, a family member who in the 1960s was in charge of Knoll & Pregizer, for their trademark to be used in in the US for costume and fine jewelry filed in 1962 and registered in 1963. This expired in 1987. Since I have no proof of anything past 1975 being made/invented or sold by the company, I am "assuming" that they held the rights for 25 years until 1987, at which time the trademark was dead.

All KP jewelry and timepieces are marked with this registered trademark. The jewelry was made in Germany, and this US Trademark protected their jewelry exported to the US.


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kp tradmark details-72147591
All of this relates to trademarking the KP in the flower (lily,tulip,orchid, etc) that is their official trademark to be used on precious and costume jewelry as well as time pieces here in the U.S.

It was from 1962-1987. Since I not found anything mentioned, patented, or made since 1975, I am assuming they were given 25 years protection for their trademark in 1962 which expired in 1987 and was not renewed. If I do discover anything, I will update my information.


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knollpregizer-USPO-72147591
Dead trademark registration for KP in the US dated filed on June 25,1962 and registered on March 19,1963 just for their precious (fine) or costume jewelry business. They worked in sterling, gold, and towards the end I have found jewelry marked rhodiant which is some type of plating that looks like rhodium.

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kp tradmark details2
"Precious metsl and their alloys and goods in precious metals or coated within not included in other classes-jewelry/jewellery, precious stones,horological and chronometric instruments

Goethestrasse 16 Phorzheim, Germany is the location that Knoll & Pregizer was in since at least 1937 according to one patent that I found. Their 1907 patent gives a different location.


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kp tradmark details3-reg#763212
Walter Knoll was the last family member of that I know of who stayed in the family business. They had other industrialists that joined and ran the company afterwards.

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walterknoll-KP

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knollpregizer-USPO
CLOCKS AND WATCHES, PARTS OF CLOCKS AND WATCHES, WATCH DIALS, CLOCKWORKS, MOVEMENTS AND PARTS THEREOF.

This is a seperate dead trademark registration for KP in the US dated June 29,1962 just covering their clocks/watch business.


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Robin Deutsch Collection
Several pieces from my collection were on display from April-October 2012 at Stan Hywet Hall & Gardens in Akron, Ohio including my Knoll & Pregizer sautoir #27 in the case. The woman in the picture in the case is Gertrue Seiberling, who was the mistress of the manor, and this is the type of jewelry she would have worn.

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Asprey Paste Ad 1930s
Even fine jeweler Asprey's in London sold paste jewelry in the 1930s. My Knoll & Pregizer KP Paste watch above a few rows is very similar to the watch featured on the top. Magnificently made sterling and paste jewelry was a viable alternative to real jewelry in the 1930s when even people of means had economic hardships and the coming war in Europe. The dating of 1930s is assured by the "clip on earrings" which were invented as styles of earrings changed and the double clip brooches that were especially prevalent during that time frame.

This ad is ©1996 Lyngerda kelley & Nancy Schiffer and featured in their book "Costume Jewelry The Great Pretenders" on page 12.


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Asprey 1937 Knoll & Pregizer Ladies Wristwatch
My newest addition to The Robin Deutsch Collection. A breathtaking 935 sterling and paste hidden flip-top watch made in Germany by Knoll & Pregizer for Asprey, the famous fine London jewelers, that were gorgeous imitations of platinum and diamond watches for sale in their store in London during the 1930s. Please see the previous ad. This is marked with the import mark for London outside and inside the case, 925 (the English standard even though the back says 935 which is what it is really made of) the letter code for 1937. and A.& Co. Ltd (for Asprey & Co. Ltd.). (This means it was assayed both in Germany where it was manufactured, and re-assayed in London)

Thank you to Jeff McCormick who is a wonderful jeweler whom I bought this breathtaking piece from, and to my dear friend Meg Andrews who surprised me for Xmas with the Asprey case that is authentic to the period for it. I'm in ASPREY-heaven!! The only way to know this watch was made by Knoll & Pregizer is the KP trademark...


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1937 Knoll & Pregizer Asprey Watch
Photo Courtesy of Jeffrey McCormick
©Copyright 2012-2013
All Rights Reserved

This is the back marked 935 (for the actual silver content the case was manufactured with in Germany), the KP trademark and Serial number 29673.


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1937 Knoll & Pregizer Asprey Watch
Photo Courtesy of Jeffrey McCormick
©Copyright 2012-2013
All Rights Reserved

Here is the inside with all of the many markings for A & Co. Ltd (Asprey Co. Ltd), Import mark for London, 925 for England's sterling English standard, and the date letter for 1937. The London import mark and 925 is also on the outside of the case on one side.


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Knoll & Pregizer Asprey Watch
Photo Courtesy of Jeffrey McCormick
©Copyright 2012-2013
All Rights Reserved

Shown with the hidden top open revealing the watch face of black enamel with Asprey on the dial.


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Robin Deutsch KP Knoll Pregizer Lotos Watch Ad 1973
This ad is from a 1973 Swiss Horology magazine that was written in French with two of their LOTOS brand watches and a Knoll & Pregizer brooch. It translates (loosely) as:

Knoll & Pregizer a tradition for more than a century. Manufacturer of boxed ladies watches, bracelets, gold watches, silver and metal as well as precious jewelry.

Description of the items shown:

Ladies watch bracelet silver dial with fine stones. (This refers to the malachite dial. I honestly do not know if the white stones are diamonds, but this is done very much in the style of Piaget)

"Esclave" (bangle/cuff) watch in white gold with brilliants and colors. Citrine (glass?)watch crystal.

White gold brooch with white brilliants and colors.

Knoll & Pregizer did produce fine jewelry starting in the 1960s as the fashion for imitation jewelry was waning. I have found many examples of their pieces in 9ct-14K-18K gold as well as gemstones such as jade and amethysts and small diamond...


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Knoll & Pregizer Sterling Art Deco Earrings
Spectacular art deco sterling clear and sapphire paste earrings with 9ct gold screwbacks. Beautiful metal work. c.1925-1930. The Robin Deutsch Collection

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Knoll & Pregizer Egyptian Revival Scarab Brooch
Incredibly rare and breathtaking Cartier-inspired Art Deco Knoll & Pregizer Egyptian Revival Scarab Brooch c.1925. Marked 935 KP. Sterling silver with calibré cut, triangular,round and cabochon pastes and faux pearls mimicking platinum, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and pearls in the form of an Egyptian scarab. This is one of the most iconic and ultimate motifs in art deco jewelry made so popular in fine jewelry by Cartier and others following the mania for all things Egyptian, especially after the discovery of King Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922. This is truly a work of art and a museum quality piece.

This was the piece of my dreams that got away so many years ago that I was finally able to obtain in 2012. It is featured in the book "A Collectors Guide to Costume Jewelry" by Tracy Tolkien and Henrietta Wilkinson from 1997 misidentified as "French". Knoll & Pregizer of Pforzheim, Germany was unknown at the time.


   
  Sign the Guestbook. Displaying 20 of 28 entries.
I have been the proud owner of an Asprey ladies 'dress watch' for many years (I have collected an eclectic mix of jewellery for many-a-long year) but which I realised was 'something different'.
Your website has at last enlightened me as to the history of this sweet little piece of art and I have had great pleasure in reading through your very informative and totally enjoyable 'site' - for which I thank you.
I am tempted to put this item on eBay at some time in the near future since I have been given an ultimatum by my wife to either de-stock or de-vorce!!
Perhaps you would like me to let you know when I do this, so that you will be able to make a bid if it is of interest to you?
In the meantime let me thank you again for all the fascinating information you have gathered together on this intriguing subject.
Kind regards,
Paul F Austin, UK
01895441931
07973336721
 - 
Paul Austin | www.paulfaustin.co.uk, Tue, 4 Mar 2014 1:45PM
Thank you so much for the history and pics of your collections. Often it is so difficult to get good , not to mention free information online.  May you continue to find and enjoy these beautiful pieces.
 - 
Carla plant, Mon, 3 Feb 2014 7:23PM
Hi, Robin.  Is it possible that there was still a factory in Schwabisch Gmund in the early 1960's where people could order jewelry of their own design?  We were stationed nearby in Goeppingen and my mother had a three strand lead crystal bead necklace commissioned somewhere in S-G, which I have now and I'm trying to find its origin.  (I was at Stan Hywet last October and toured the jewelry collection.  Very impressive!)  Thanks for your help!  Sonnie B
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Sonnie Bodine, Mon, 3 Jun 2013 12:49PM
thanks for all the history. i was out at a casino tonight and steped on something, a rock and next to it were three others and a bracelet... junk ? KP in a shild and a P next to that with 935 above on the clasp. yes the KP intersect just as what you have on your fine examples. lots of paste diamonds and fine workmanship.
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Richard A. Hayes, Sat, 11 May 2013 8:37PM
I have a KP watch which belongs to an elderly neighbour of mine.
I have been searching for any info on this watch to no avail.
Can anyone assist me in some way regarding how old it is & has it got any value ?
The markings are as follows 935 GS KP 15979
Many Thanks
 - 
Steve, Thu, 9 May 2013 6:58AM
Way cool! Some extremely valid points! I appreciate you penning this post and also the rest of the site is also very good.
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Jewelry Men S Gold Diamond Ring, Wed, 13 Mar 2013 10:47AM
Hi Robin, I too have a Spider and Fly brooch marked 935 and KP which has been handed down through my family who were originally German on my grandmother's side. I notice someone else mentioned they had one too. Are you able to give me any information about it? I'm happy to provide pictures. Sorry to ask I'm sure you are being inundated now that you have provided this amazing source of information.
 - 
helen pitcher, Sun, 6 Jan 2013 9:15AM
Congratulations on your research. It is quite fascinating!
Please can I contact you privately? I have some question about early styles.
Happy hunting in 2013!
 - 
Norma, Thu, 3 Jan 2013 4:16AM
Hi Robin,
I was looking for German Ren. jewlery when I spotted your K&P site. What a wonderfull surprise! I have inhearted several pieces from my grandmother & great grandmother. I have always loved these pieces & wear them alot! I was wondering about the value of these pieces for insurance purposes. I have pics of my jewlery pices in my safety deposit box, but like to know if these pieces should be there too. Can you turn me on to a site or book with prices on some of these pieces? Chris
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Christine Fitzgerald, Thu, 11 Oct 2012 8:38AM
Thank you. very nice and informative site.

I just the other day bought a Knoll & Pregizer womens wrist watch. Its marked KP in the lotus flower and the code 64942, on the back of the clock. And on the inside there is some stamps too, 1 is silver-stamp. When is this clock from? What is it worth??

Thanks: Jonas F/ Sweden
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Jonas Forsblad, Fri, 17 Aug 2012 5:24AM
Thank you for sharing your extensive knowledge. I found a gorgeous rhinestone bracelet, similar to the one you have pictured that you were going to restore, but had no idea what the mark was. It is signed KP in a shield with 935 and sterling. This one has had some of the stones replaced. Does this affect the value a great deal? Thanks again for sharing your expertise.
 - 
Joan, Wed, 1 Aug 2012 6:55PM
Hi Robin, great & fascinating article on Knoll & Pregizer. I think I have an original piece - could I e mail images to you?
Regards
Kathy Brodie
 - 
KATHY BRODIE, Sun, 17 Jun 2012 4:26AM
Hello Robin,

Thank you for your interesting article and beautiful pictures. I recently discovered a Knoll & Pregizer gold 4 leaf clover pin that was passed on to me by my grandmother. I was wondering if you could share any history about it with me.
Thank you!
 - 
Jeanne, Mon, 5 Mar 2012 11:44AM
thankyou for the information on k&p.i found your pages whilst searching for silver marks and dates.i have been lucky enough to find a lapel pin sterling silver 935 with paste stones.i actually thought they were diamonds at first.it is so lovely.thankyou again.sue
 - 
susan fretwell, Mon, 20 Feb 2012 11:38AM
Hi,  Just read this great & informative article which I found when search for the KP mark.  I've just bought a Victorian style spider & fly brooch marked 925 KP and wanted to find out more about it.  Costume is a new world for me but I can see how addictive it can become.

Thank you for sharing.
 - 
elaine, Sat, 15 Oct 2011 3:51AM
Robin, Robin, Robin,
I just read (every word) of your stunning Knoll & Pregizer tribute. You are absolutely amazing and a true historian. How utterly kind of you to share your vast knowledge. Thank you so very much. This is fantastic!
Best regards,
Andie of CA
 - 
Andie Haynes, Thu, 6 Oct 2011 5:45PM
hi Robin,
i love you page, it is one of most beautiful jewellery what i seen so far. But i have a question: couple days ago i bough of internet paste dress clip with watch,the dress clip marked: "metal", but i test it and it made of solid silver, also watch marked: metal rhodiant, lily with blue enamel inside and letters KP, 673706; on movement says: swiss made 696 17 jewels fig. Can it be Knoll & Pregizer and how much this dress clip can worthing? and why it made of silver and marked metal.
thank you very much, Tanya
 - 
Tanya, Fri, 22 Jul 2011 5:13AM
Fue un gusto encontrar una página que haga referencia a estos joyeros, ya que poseo un collar firmado por los mismos. Además de contar con partes de plata 935, posee también varios hilos con perlas. Estoy interesado en su venta. Queda registrado mi dirección electrónica. Cordiales saludos
 - 
Gustavo, Thu, 13 Jan 2011 3:18PM
Hi I really enjoyed reading your research, and wondered if you might be interested in a KP watch i have the serial number is 14960 it is marked 935 but remarked inside the case 925 it still works but I feel it could do with a service/clean if you are interested please let me know.
 - 
tony, Wed, 29 Dec 2010 10:58PM
I was fascinated to see the 14k brooch with amethyst violets w/diamonds, jade leaves. I own the identical matching earrings with 3 flowers and one leaf on each earring; purchased from a fine jewelry shop in Palm Beach County in 1977. Until now, only knew they were from W. Germany. Would be very curious of value and would consider selling. Any help/reply would be appreciated.
 - 
Peggy, Thu, 23 Dec 2010 4:21PM
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